If you’re looking for a relaxing project with beautiful results, this mosaic crochet potholder pattern is a perfect choice 🌿 Worked in the round, this mosaic crochet square combines gentle repetition with eye-catching texture, making it ideal for everything from blanket squares to potholders and small handmade gifts. It’s a wonderful way to build confidence with mosaic crochet while creating something both practical and pretty.
In this post, you’ll find everything you need to help you create this mosaic crochet potholder (or blanket square), including yarn options, stitch tutorials and written pattern in US terms for blog subscribers. There’s also a video tutorial to help you with any tricky bits!
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Mosaic Crochet Potholder Pattern Overview
- Pattern type: Crochet tile pattern – part of the Blooming Tiles Blanket, but perfect for potholders too!
- Skill level: Advanced beginner (confident with basic stitches and repeats)
- Stitches: single crochet and mosaic double crochet stitches in the overlay mosaic crochet technique
- Size: each square is 8.5 inches (22cm) across
- Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK
- Hook size: 4mm
- US terms: or upgrade for UK terms too!
- Perfect for: a blanket square, a potholder or washcloth!
Yarn
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, 100% Acrylic, (276m/302yds, 100g/3.53oz)
You will need approx. 105yds, 96m of yarn for each square. This is 1 ball of the recommended yarn, but you will need 2 colours per square.
I used a variety of colours for my squares: MC: for borders & joining – Pistachio Green (124).
CC: for the squares – Pine Green (67), Cerulean Blue (74), Blush Pink (153), Dusty Lilac (146), Vanilla Cream (107), Greige Pink (81).
Yarn Alternatives
This pattern is designed to be used with DK weight yarn, but you can substitute for any that you prefer. Now is the perfect time to use yarn from your stash!
Here are a few alternative options:
- Brava Recycle, 100% Recycled Acrylic, (100g/3.5oz, 280m/306yds)
- Stylecraft Special DK, 100% Acrylic, (100g/3.5oz, 295m/323yds)
- Emu Classic DK, 100% Acrylic, (100g/3.5oz, 282m/308yds)
Supplies you will need
- 4.0mm Crochet Hook or hook needed to match gauge
- A tapestry needle for working in ends
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Size
Each mosaic square measures 8.5 by 8.5 inches (22 x 22cm) including the square’s border. The border adds 0.5 inch (1cm) on each side.
The Blooming Tiles Mosaic Crochet Blanket
If you fancy taking your mosaic crochet flower square one step further, I’d like to introduce you to the Blooming Tiles Blanket: a beautiful mosaic crochet design made up of four unique floral squares. Each tile features a delicate, nature-inspired motif, coming together to create a textured blanket that feels both calming to make and stunning to display.
Find mosaic crochet square 1 here.
How to get the pattern
There are a few different ways that you can get your mosaic crochet blanket pattern.
The square in this blogpost is square 2 and you will find the other squares on separate blogposts as they get released throughout May 2026.
You can carry on scrolling down and read the pattern for free on the blog in US crochet terms. The blog has ads on it, which is how I am able to offer it for free. Please do bookmark the page and come back to it as you work on your pattern though, rather than trying to print it out. Spending time on this page is how I get paid.
Alternatively you can purchase a premium pdf version of the pattern, which includes schematic, stitch tutorials, links to lots of video tutorials and full explanations. The premium pattern comes in US and UK terms. And of course, if you purchase the pattern, it is yours to keep, print and make notes on too.
PLEASE NOTE: The premium pattern is a pdf crochet pattern, written in English. It is not a finished project. You will receive a digital download upon completion of purchase.
Tension:
Work the first 9 rounds of any square to measure 4 x 4 inches (10 x 10cm) using 4mm hook, or hook required to meet gauge.
Stitch Abbreviations
- blo – back loop only (back loop only crochet tutorial)
- CC – contrasting colours (for making the squares)
- ch(s) – chain(s)
- ch-sp(s) – chain space(s)
- dc – double crochet
- MC – main colour (for borders)
- Mdc – mosaic double crochet
- rep – repeat
- RS – right side
- sc – single crochet (how to do a single crochet stitch)
- slst – slip stitch
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- WS – wrong side
- […] – stitch count
- * – repeat the instructions from * around
- ** – used if a repeat ends partway through on the last repeat.
If you love this stitch pattern, you might also like the reversible rainbow placemats pattern.
What Special Crochet Stitches are Used to Make the Mosaic Crochet Potholder Square?
Magic Ring (MR)
The magic ring is a fantastic way to start crocheting in amigurumi, and any crochet in the round. It can be a bit complicated though, so do check out my magic ring YouTube tutorial for a visual guide.
- Lay the tail end of the yarn over your palm and wrap the ball end around your first 2 fingers. Cross the yarn over and hold that point with your thumb and forefinger.
- Pull the loop off your fingers, insert your hook into the hole and grab the ball end of the yarn with your hook.
- Pull the yarn back through the loop. At this point, readjust your hand so you are holding the yarn as you normally would.
- Put your middle finger and ring finger into the loop to hold it. Then yarn over and pull through to secure your ring.
You can then start crocheting into the ring in the normal way.
Overlay Mosaic Crochet
Overlay mosaic crochet uses the front loops and back loops to create a beautiful textured colourwork project. You work each alternate round in a different colour using a combination of two stitches: the single crochet in the back loops only; and the mosaic double crochet in the front loops only of the stitch two rounds below the current round. The single crochet will always be worked into a stitch of the other colour, whilst the mosaic double crochet stitches are worked into a stitch of the same colour.
Click here to watch a tutorial on overlay mosaic crochet.
When you work mosaic crochet in rows, you need to cut your yarn after each row. However this pattern is worked in the round, so you can just leave the yarn hanging behind your work, ready to be picked up again for the next round. This means less ends to sew in!!
Mosaic double crochet (Mdc)
- Yarn over and insert your hook into the unworked front loop of the stitch from the row below the one you would normally work into (it will be the same colour as the yarn you are using).
- Yarn over and pull through.
- Yarn over and pull through two loops.
- Yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops to complete the stitch.
Mosaic Crochet in the Round
Working mosaic crochet in the round is similar to mosaic crochet in rows with a few differences.
When working Mdc in the corner stitches, the first and last 2 Mdc on each side will be worked into the same corner stitch. This is because we are working 2 rounds down and there is only 1 unworked front loop available to work into. If you have Mdc in the first and second stitch of the side, you will end up with 4 stitches worked in the corner loop 2 rounds down.
At the end of each round, you will slip stitch into the first st to join. You will then slip stitch with the new colour into the corner chain space to start the next round.
Working the Corners in Overlay Mosaic Crochet
The corners are definitely the trickiest part of this pattern, so I’ve included a guide on how to work the different types of corners.
sc, ch1, sc
In the back loop of the corner ch-sp, work a single crochet, chain 1, and then work another single crochet.
Mdc, ch1, Mdc
In the front loop of the corner ch-sp 2 rounds below, work a Mosaic double crochet, chain 1, and then another Mosaic double crochet.
2Mdc, ch1, 2Mdc
As Mosaic double crochet stitches are worked into the stitch 2 rounds below, you will find that there are not enough front loops to work the corner stitch and the one next to it into. Therefore they both need to go into the front loop of the corner ch-sp on each side. So you will end up with 4 Mdc in the same stitch. You will then need to skip a stitch before and after the corner on the current round.
The first corner: Mdc, ch1, 2Mdc
At the start of any round with 2Mdc in the corners, we begin with 1Mdc, chain 1, 2Mdc in the front loop of the ch-sp 2 rounds below. This is because the round starts in the stitch directly before the corner. We then add the other Mdc as the last stitch of the round in the same front loop of the corner ch-sp as the other 3 Mdc are.
Pattern Notes
Be sure to read through these notes before you start your mosaic crochet square pattern – they will make it so much easier to understand the pattern!
- Read through the pattern completely before starting and refer to the stitch tutorials as needed.
- The pattern squares use either single crochet in the back loop only or Mosaic double crochet stitches.
- Only 1 colour is used per round.
- Change yarn with a slip stitch to start each new round, leaving the unworked yarn behind to be picked up again when needed.
- St counts are given in [ ] at the end of a round.
- On each corner, you will find a ch1 corner space, which you will work into in the next round. Use a stitch marker to mark these corner chain-spaces. Don’t be afraid to push the stitches out of the way to see where you need to work either.
- ch1 spaces are not included in the stitch count.
- All squares reference yarn A and yarn B for the 2 alternating CC yarns, but you can use any two colours (out of the 6 I used or whichever colours you choose).
Prefer a Video Tutorial?
If you prefer crocheting from a video tutorial, watch as I show you how to crochet the blooming tiles mosaic crochet blanket:
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Mosaic Crochet Potholder Free Pattern
US Terminology.
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Round 7: A: (Mdc, ch1, 2Mdc) in corner ch-sp, *sc in blo in next 2 sts, Mdc in next 5 sts, sc in blo in next 2 sts, (2Mdc, ch1, 2Mdc) in corner ch-sp, rep from * 2 more times, sc in blo in next 2 sts, Mdc in next 5 sts, sc in blo in next 2 sts, Mdc in corner ch-sp, slst in first st to join, slst in ch-sp and change to B. [52]
Round 8: B: *(sc, ch1, sc) in blo of corner ch-sp, sc in blo in next 2 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in blo in next 7 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in blo in next 2 sts, rep from * around, slst in first st to join, slst in ch-sp and change to A. [60]
Round 9: A: (Mdc, ch1, 2Mdc) in corner ch-sp, *sc in blo in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 7 sts, sc in blo in next 3 sts, (2Mdc, ch1, 2Mdc) in corner ch-sp, rep from * 2 more times, sc in blo in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 7 sts, sc in blo in next 3 sts, Mdc in corner ch-sp, slst in first st to join, slst in ch-sp and change to B. [68]
Round 10: B: *(sc, ch1, sc) in blo of corner ch-sp, sc in blo in next 2 sts, Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in blo in next 7 sts, Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in blo in next 2 sts, rep from * around, slst in first st to join, slst in ch-sp and change to A. [76]
Round 11: A: (Mdc, ch1, 2Mdc) in corner ch-sp, *Mdc in next st, sc in blo in next 5 sts, Mdc in next 5 sts, sc in blo in next 5 sts, Mdc in next st, (2Mdc, ch1, 2Mdc) in corner ch-sp, rep from * 2 more times, Mdc in next st, sc in blo in next 5 sts, Mdc in next 5 sts, sc in blo in next 5 sts, Mdc in next st, Mdc in corner ch-sp, slst in first st to join, slst in ch-sp and change to B. [84]
Round 12: B: *(sc, ch1, sc) in blo of corner ch-sp, sc in blo in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 5 sts, sc in blo in next 5 sts, Mdc in next 5 sts, sc in blo in next 3 sts, rep from * around, slst in first st to join, slst in ch-sp and change to A. [92]
Round 13: A: (Mdc, ch1, 2Mdc) in corner ch-sp, *Mdc in next 2 sts, sc in blo in next 7 sts, Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in blo in next 7 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts, (2Mdc, ch1, 2Mdc) in corner ch-sp, rep from * 2 more times, Mdc in next 2 sts, sc in blo in next 7 sts, Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in blo in next 7 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts, Mdc in corner ch-sp, slst in first st to join, slst in ch-sp and change to B. [100]
Round 14: B: *(sc, ch1, sc) in blo of corner ch-sp, sc in blo in next 4 sts, Mdc in next 7 sts, sc in blo in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 7 sts, sc in blo in next 4 sts, rep from * around, slst in first st to join, slst in ch-sp and change to A. [108]
Round 15: A: *(sc, ch1, sc) in blo of corner ch-sp, sc in blo in next 13 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in blo in next 13 sts, rep from * around, slst in first st to join, slst in ch-sp and change to A. [116]
Round 16: B: (Mdc, ch1, 2Mdc) in corner ch-sp, *Mdc in next 13 sts, sc in blo in next st, Mdc in next 13 sts, (2Mdc, ch1, 2Mdc) in corner ch-sp, rep from * 2 more times, Mdc in next 13 sts, sc in blo in next st, Mdc in next 13 sts, Mdc in corner ch-sp, slst in first st to join, slst in ch-sp and fasten off. [124]
Continue to square borders section.
How about trying another mosaic pattern? This mosaic crochet snowdrops pattern is also perfect for turning into a blanket.
Square Border
You can add the border to each square as you make them or do them all at once at the end. The square measurements include this border, so if you leave it out, your squares will be smaller.
Join yarn MC in any corner ch-sp with a ch1.
Round 1: *(sc, ch1, sc) in blo of corner ch-sp, sc in blo of each st across to corner, rep from * around, slst in first st to join, slst in ch-sp. [132 sts]
Round 2: rep Round 1. [140 sts]
Fasten off, weave in ends and block squares to measurements.
Check out my other crochet patterns too for more crochet inspiration.
Pattern help
There is a lot more detail in the premium pdf pattern of the mosaic crochet blanket, including photos, stitch tutorials and a schematic. Plus it’s your to print out and keep!
Also please do check out the stitch tutorials on my YouTube channel for extra guidance.
Get the ad-free PDF here!
Upgrade to the premium PDF and create the Blooming Tiles Blanket — a beautifully textured, floral mosaic crochet design that’s calm, creative, and a joy to make.
What You Get
✨ Ad-free, printable PDF in UK and US terms — instant download
🌸 Four unique floral square designs, worked in the round
🧶 Mosaic crochet technique with no sewing in ends
📊 Mosaic charts for each square for visual learners
🎥 Supporting video tutorials to guide you along the way
📐 Blanket schematic, colour placement ideas, and layout options
💛 A relaxing, modular project you can pick up and enjoy anytime
If you are struggling with the pattern, please don’t hesitate to reach out.
Find me on Facebook or Instagram @concretegemscrochet or drop me a message.
FAQ
A: DK weight yarn works well for this mosaic crochet square. Acrylic is a great choice for blankets, while cotton yarn is ideal if you’re making a potholder or something that needs to be heat-resistant.
A: Yes, this mosaic crochet square pattern is suitable for confident beginners. The stitches are simple and repetitive, and the pattern includes step-by-step instructions and video support to help you learn mosaic crochet in the round. However, you might want to try regular overlay mosaic crochet first.
A: Mosaic crochet in the round is worked by crocheting in continuous rounds while carrying the yarn up the back, rather than cutting it after each row. This method creates clean colourwork and means you don’t need to sew in multiple ends.
A: Each square measures 8.5 inches x 8.5 inches once the border is added, as long as you work to the same gauge I have.
A: You can use a mosaic crochet square in many ways, including as a blanket square, potholder, cushion cover, coaster, or small handmade gift. It’s a versatile design that works for both practical and decorative projects.
If you enjoyed making your easy mosaic crochet potholder please consider sharing it to social media tagging @concretegemscrochet or come and join the Concrete Gems Crochet Community to share in the joy of crochet with me.
Other Crochet Patterns you Might Enjoy
If you enjoyed making this textured crochet blanket pattern, then you might also like these mosaic crochet patterns:
- Woodland advent calendar pattern – with 24 motifs to hang on a mosaic crochet Christmas tree.
- Mosaic crochet wedding blanket – create a stunning silhouette of a wedding couple.
- crochet shoulder bag – with a cute sheep motif on the front.
Thanks for reading and happy crocheting! 🧶
