The Snowflake crochet Headband is a great item for the winter. Whether you are off skiing or just doing the school run, this headband is sure to keep you warm and cosy. Made in the round using overlay mosaic crochet, the snowflake headband crochet pattern is the perfect project to start or continue your mosaic crochet journey. The simple, repeated snowflake motif is easy to pick up, but creates a lovely, wintry effect.

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What is Overlay Mosaic Crochet?

Overlay mosaic crochet is a beautiful crochet technique, which uses single and double crochet stitches to create amazing designs.

Overlay mosaic crochet uses the front loops and back loops to create a beautiful textured colourwork project. You work each alternate round in a different colour using a combination of two stitches: the single crochet in the back loops only; and the double crochet in the front loops only of the stitch two rounds below the current round.

The single crochet will always be worked into a stitch of the other colour, whilst the mosaic double crochet stitches are worked into a stitch of the same colour.

Click here to watch a tutorial on overlay mosaic crochet.

Overlay mosaic crochet is worked from right to left (for a right-handed crocheter) on the front of the work only. This means you would normally need to cut your yarn at the end of each row, and therefore have lots of ends.

How is the Snowflake Headband Crochet Pattern made?

The Snowflake Headband uses overlay mosaic crochet as described above.

However, we are working in the round, so we can carry our yarn up the inside of the join. This means we don’t need to cut the yarn each time. So not so many ends to weave!

There are a few tricky stitches in the pattern, where we make our mosaic double crochet stitches at an angle, but there is a full length YouTube tutorial to help you with those.

Three crocheted headbands with snowflakes on them in blue, pink and grey

Size

HEADBAND CIRCUMFERENCE:

These are the actual headband sizes. If you are unsure what size to make, measure round your head and take off around 2-3” (5-7.5cm) depending on how tight you like your headband.

I don’t like mine too tight. So my head was 22.5” and I made the Teen/S Adult size to fit me. If you are still unsure you can crochet the first row and see how it feels round your head. Remember that your headband will stretch.

0-6m6-12mToddlerChildTeen / S AdultL AdultXL Adult
in12141618202224
cm30364146515661

HEADBAND HEIGHT: 2.75” / 7cm

If you would like you headband to be wider, add an extra row or 2 of sc at the beginning and end of the pattern.

How to get the pattern

There are a few different ways that you can get your Snowflake Headband crochet pattern.

You can carry on scrolling down and read the pattern free on the blog. The blog has ads on it, which is how I am able to offer it for free.

Alternatively you can purchase a premium pdf version of the pattern, which includes stitch tutorials, links to lots of video tutorials, schematics and full explanations. And of course, if you purchase the pattern, it is yours to keep, print and make notes on.

PLEASE NOTE: This listing is for a pdf crochet pattern, written in English. It is not a finished project. You will receive a digital download.

Included in the premium pattern:

A 12 page pdf crochet pattern written in US crochet terms, including images, step by step instructions and guidance.

An accompanying video tutorial.

Stitch tutorials are also included as part of the pattern.

Pattern support if needed.

Difficulty level is Advanced Beginner.

You will need:

Stylecraft Special DK 100% Acrylic (100g/3.5oz, 295m/323yds) in cream (A), and a contrasting colour (B) – we used grey, pomegranate or turquoise. One ball of each will be plenty to make any of the sizes (you can also use any other DK acrylic to meet the gauge).

A 4.0 mm crochet hook, or hook to match gauge

Stitch markers

A tapestry needle for working in ends

Scissors

Tension

20 stitches and 19 rows over mosaic crochet = 4” / 10cm square.

Abbreviations

blo – back loops only

ch(s) – chain(s)

flo – front loops only

hdc – half double crochet

inv join – invisible join (see special stitches)

mdc – mosaic double crochet (see special stitches)

mdc3tog – mosaic double crochet three together (see special stitches)

rep – repeat

sc – single crochet

ss – slip stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

[…] – stitch count

* – repeat the instructions from * around

Mum and child hugging and wearing crocheted headbands

Pattern Notes

The Snowflake Headband is worked in overlay mosaic crochet in the round. There is a mosaic crochet tutorial included above. Odd numbered rounds are made with Yarn A, even numbered rounds are made with Yarn B.

You will be joining each round with a ss into the first stitch of that round. Then, you will pull the new colour through the ss loop on your hook. Make sure to pull the previous colour tight to hide that extra loop. To make sure the join is properly hidden, when you are finishing with an mdc, you can insert your hook into the required front loop and then also into the first stitch of the round before completing the mdc as usual.

At the end of each round, do not cut your yarn, simply leave it hanging to pick up for the next round.

St count is shown as [0-6m (6-12m, Toddler, Child, Teen/S Adult, L Adult, XL Adult)].

There is a stitch chart in the premium pattern, showing the snowflake repeating pattern, if you prefer to use a chart over written instructions.

Watch out for your stitch counts. Where you are ss in the 1st st to join, and then joining your new colour, you will need to be careful that you are inserting your hook into the right loop for the first stitch of the next round. Use a stitch marker to help.

This tutorial is written for right-handed crocheters. If you are left-handed, you will be working from left to right around the headband. Because the pattern repeats, you should be able to follow the pattern as it is. Alternatively you can follow the chart only, reading it from left to right, but you will not be able to switch between both the written pattern and the chart together.

Tips

On Round 10, you will be working some of the mdc in between the points of the snowflake. The front loops of the Round below are hidden, so you will need to lift the slanting stitches out of the way to find where to insert your hook.

On Round 13, you will be doing hdc going through both loops, rather than blo or flo. You do not need to do ch2 to start, but you are welcome to if you prefer.

Special Stitches

Mosaic Double Crochet (mdc)

1. Yarn over and insert your hook into the unworked front loop of the stitch from the round below the one you would normally work into (it will be the same colour as the yarn you are using). 2. Yarn over and pull through. 3. Yarn over and pull through two loops. 4. Yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops to complete the stitch.

Foundation sc

A foundation sc allows you to create that first round of your project without using a chain.

  • Start with a slipknot and ch2 (this does not count as a stitch).
  • Insert hook in second ch from hook and pull through a loop.
  • Yarn over and pull through one loop (this makes the chain part of your first Foundation sc).
  • Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook (this makes the sc part of your first Foundation sc).
  • Insert your hook into the chain part of the previous stitch, going through the two top ‘v’ shape strands of the chain.
  • Yarn over and pull through one loop (this makes the chain part of the Foundation sc).
  • Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook (this makes the sc part of the Foundation sc).
  • Repeat steps 5 to 7.

mdc3tog

This stitch is used to make the bottom 3 points of the snowflake like this: ⩚ You will be working into the same colour yarn as your working yarn. Watch a video tutorial here.

1. Yarn over and insert your hook into the front loop of the stitch from the round below the one you would normally work into and two stitches to the right (or left if you’re left-handed). Yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.

2. Yarn over and insert your hook into the front loop of the stitch directly below the one you would normally work into (next but one to the stitch you used already). Yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.

3. Yarn over and insert your hook into the front loop of the stitch from the round below the one you would normally work into and two stitches to the left (or right if you’re left-handed) (next but one to the one in step 2). Yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.

4. Yarn over and pull through all remaining loops on your hook.

mdc diagonally to the right or left

Rather than working an mdc into the stitch directly below the current stitch, you will work these stitches diagonally to the left or right two stitches, into the middle of the snowflake motif.

Pin it for later

Snowflake headband pin image

Full-length Video Tutorial

Follow along as I create a snowflake headband. I’ll show you all the stitches and techniques you’ll need to complete your own Snowflake Headband.

Mum and child looking at each other wearing snowflake crochet headbands

The Snowflake Headband Crochet Pattern

Round 1: using Yarn A, make a foundation sc of 60 (70, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120), ss in first st to join into a ring. Alternatively you can ch60 (70, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120), ss in first ch to join and then work a round of sc, ss in first st to join.

Do not cut Yarn A.

Round 2: join Yarn B by pulling it through the loop on your hook (see notes), sc in blo around, ss in blo of first st to join. [60 (70, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120)]

Do not cut Yarn B.

Round 3: re-join Yarn A, sc in blo around, ss in blo of first st to join

Round 4: re-join Yarn B, *sc in blo, 3mdc, sc in blo, 3mdc, sc in blo, mdc, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join

Round 5: re-join Yarn A, *4sc in blo, mdc, 5sc in blo, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join

Round 6: re-join Yarn B, *2mdc, sc in blo, mdc, sc in blo, mdc, sc in blo, 3mdc, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join

Round 7: re-join Yarn A, *4sc in blo, mdc3tog, 5sc in blo, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join

Round 8: re-join Yarn B, *9sc in blo, mdc, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join

Round 9: re-join Yarn A, *2sc in blo, mdc diagonally left to middle, sc in blo, mdc, sc in blo, mdc diagonally right to middle, 3sc in blo, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join

Round 10: (see note) re-join Yarn B, *2mdc, sc in blo, mdc, sc in blo, mdc, sc in blo, 3mdc, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join

Round 11: re-join Yarn A, *4sc in blo, mdc, 5sc in blo, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join

Round 12: re-join Yarn B, *sc in blo, 3mdc, sc in blo, 3mdc, sc in blo, mdc, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join

Round 13: (see note) re-join Yarn A, hdc in both loops around, inv join

Fasten off and weave in ends. Sew together the small gap at the start if you used foundation sc.

Pattern help

There is a lot more detail regarding the different stitches in the pdf pattern. Also please do watch all of the stitch tutorials on my YouTube channel for extra guidance.

If you are struggling with the pattern, please don’t hesitate to reach out.

Find me on Facebook or Instagram @concretegemscrochet or drop me a message.

This pattern is the property of  Concrete Gems, please do not share, copy, alter or distribute it in any way. You are welcome to sell items you make using this pattern on a small scale but please credit @concretegemscrochet when doing this.

What next?

I’ve really loved designing this pattern for you and hope you have had fun making it. I’m Gemma, a crochet tech editor, designer and overall crochet enthusiast. I’m also a mum of 3 kids, and enjoy running, reading, walking and crafting, but mostly crochet!

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Check out my other patterns here.

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