This small crochet handbag pattern is a charming little accessory which combines the timeless appeal of mosaic crochet with the modern convenience of a compact bag. Perfect for carrying your essentials – phone, keys, and a touch of retro style – this handbag is a delightful project for crocheters of all levels.
You might by now have realised that I love a bit of mosaic crochet and I love a bit of texture. This bag is a combination of these two loves and I’m so excited to share it with you!
The bag is loosely inspired by the Art Deco era, but with a modern twist, and of course plenty of texture thrown in. I love the geometric patterns of the Art Deco time and mosaic crochet is the perfect medium to translate these shapes into my modern handbag.
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Stash Busting
I am a massive advocate for using up scraps and minimising waste, so any design that can do that is a firm favourite of mine!
I’ve already made 3 of these bags and all of them have used yarn from my stash. So when you are choosing the yarn for your bag, be sure to take a look at what you already have and see if you have anything that you can use.
The only thing I will advise though, is that cotton yarn is by far the best choice for this bag. This is because it doesn’t stretch like acrylic and is a lot more hard-wearing. I did make one using acrylic and it was fine but I don’t think I would put anything too heavy in it!
How is this Small Crochet Handbag Pattern Made?
This small crochet handbag pattern is super easy to follow and there is a full-length video tutorial to use if you are a visual learner.
We start the bag by making the front bag flap. This is made using overlay mosaic crochet increasing each row by 2 as we work.
We then continue to work the main bag body in straight rows using a stitch called the crunch stitch.
The bag is then folded and seamed. An edging is added around the mosaic flap at the same time and a buttonhole is added.
Finally the strap is made using Tunisian Crochet. This is attached to the bag at either side.
Styling Your Handbag
This small crochet handbag can be styled in so many ways, and your choice of yarn may influence how you wear it! Are you going to use bright exciting colours, or muted tones?
Before you start making your bag, you might like to consider how and where you’re going to wear it!
If you’re planning on wearing it to a business meeting, my brown and beige version may work better than the blue and pink one, but of course this is entirely your choice!
A matching bag for a wedding outfit would be amazing!
If you’re anything like me, you’re going to love wearing it as a cross body bag, so that your hands are free to deal with the kids and carry all of their junk! So you’re going to want to make a nice long strap like I did!
But you might prefer to wear it on one shoulder, either long or short – think about how long you want your strap to be in this case.
Another option is to have no strap at all, and make it into a purse or clutch bag. This is also a great option!
However you style your bag, be sure to tag me on social media so I can see your finished project! @concretegemscrochet
Size
My finished bag measured 7.5″ x 4.25″ (20cm x 11cm).
My bag strap was 46″ (116cm) long.
You can adjust the height of your bag by reducing or increasing the numbers of rows you work for the main bag body.
How to get the pattern
There are a few different ways that you can get your free small crochet handbag pattern.
You can carry on scrolling down and read the pattern free on the blog in US crochet terms. The blog has ads on it, which is how I am able to offer it for free. Please do bookmark the page and come back to it as you work on your pattern though, rather than trying to print it out. Spending time on this page is how I get paid.
Alternatively you can purchase a premium pdf version of the pattern, which includes stitch tutorials, links to lots of video tutorials, schematics and full explanations. The premium pattern comes in US and UK terms. And of course, if you purchase the pattern, it is yours to keep, print and make notes on.
PLEASE NOTE: This listing is for a pdf crochet pattern, written in English. It is not a finished project. You will receive a digital download.
Included in the premium pattern:
A 14 page pdf crochet pattern written in US and UK crochet terms, including images, step by step instructions and guidance.
An accompanying video tutorial.
Stitch tutorials are also included as part of the pattern.
Pattern support if needed.
Difficulty level is Advanced Beginner.
You will need:
Any DK yarn will work for this bag. I would recommend using a cotton yarn to stop your bag stretching too much.
I used Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK, 100% cotton (50g/1.76oz, 125m/137yds) in Kingfisher Blue 435 (Yarn A).
Rico Creative Ricorumi DK, 100% cotton (25g/0.88oz, 57m/62yds) in Ecru 054 (Yarn B).
4.0mm (G-6) Crochet Hook or hook needed to meet gauge
Button
A tapestry needle for working in ends
Scissors
Tension:
Tension: 20 stitches and 22 rows over crunch stitch = 4” / 10cm square.
To measure your tension / gauge, create a sample swatch using the crunch stitch (explained in the pattern).
Block and measure your swatch.
If your sample swatch is bigger than the tension given, try with a smaller hook size. If your swatch is smaller than the tension given, try with a larger hook size.
Abbreviations
blo – back loop only
ch(s) – chain(s)
FwdP – Forward Pass
hdc – half double crochet
mdc – mosaic double crochet
rep – repeat
RetP – Return Pass
RS – right side
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over
* – repeat the instructions from the * as directed
() – repeat the instructions within the brackets as directed
Pattern Notes
Read through the pattern completely before starting and refer to the stitch tutorials as needed.
There is a stitch chart at the end of the pattern, showing the mosaic section of the pattern, if you prefer to use a chart over written instructions.
ch2 does not count as a stitch throughout.
The mosaic section of the bag is worked in rows using overlay mosaic crochet (see special stitches). Join your yarn by putting a sl st on your hook and making a standing sc. You will then make a second sc into that same first st.
Fasten off and cut your yarn at the end of each row of the mosaic section. Do not turn, just re-join your new colour at the start of the row again.
If you are left-handed, you will be working your mosaic section from left to right, instead of from right to left. The pattern is symmetric so it works the same both ways.
The bag body section is made in turned rows using a stitch called crunch stitch, which is a combination of hdc and sl st. This stitch is explained fully in the pattern.
When counting stitches, both the hdc and the ss count as stitches. You can see the distinct pattern created by the hdc to help you count.
If you are using a large button, you may want to make your buttonhole larger by skipping more sts and chaining more, when you reach the assembly and edging section.
The bag strap is made using Tunisian crochet, but you can use your regular 4mm hook for this. The stitch is a modified tss (Tunisian Simple Stitch). There is a stitch tutorial included.
On the strap, keep your stitches loose and pull up the loops to the full height of the stitch to avoid the strap twisting too much. A little twisting is fine and this will reduce further with blocking and joining to the bag.
Optional Adjustments
If you want to increase the height of your bag, you can easily do this by adding extra rows of the crunch stitch section.
You can also easily adjust the length of your bag strap by making more or fewer rows of the Tunisian Crochet.
Special Stitches
Below are the instructions for all the special stitches you will need for your crochet handbag pattern.
Overlay Mosaic Crochet
Overlay mosaic crochet uses the front loops and back loops to create a beautiful textured colourwork project. You work each alternate row in a different colour using a combination of two stitches: the single crochet in the back loops only; and the double crochet in the front loops only of the stitch two rows below the current row. The single crochet will always be worked into a stitch of the other colour, whilst the mosaic double crochet stitches are worked into a stitch of the same colour.
Click here to watch a tutorial on overlay mosaic crochet.
Overlay mosaic crochet is worked from right to left (for a right-handed crocheter) on the front of the work only. This means you will need to cut your yarn at the end of each row.
Mosaic Double Crochet (mdc)
- Yarn over and insert your hook into the unworked front loop of the stitch from the row below the one you would normally work into (it will be the same colour as the yarn you are using).
- Yarn over and pull through.
- Yarn over and pull through two loops.
- Yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops to complete the stitch.
Foundation Single Crochet
A foundation sc allows you to create that first row of your project without using a chain.
- Start with a slipknot and ch2 (this does not count as a stitch).
- Insert hook in second ch from hook and pull through a loop.
- Yarn over and pull through one loop (this makes the chain part of your first Foundation sc).
- Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook (this makes the sc part of your first Foundation sc).
- Insert your hook into the chain part of the previous stitch, going through the two top ‘v’ shape strands of the chain.
- Yarn over and pull through one loop (this makes the chain part of the Foundation sc).
- Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook (this makes the sc part of the Foundation sc).
- Repeat steps 5 to 7.
Watch a video tutorial of the Foundation sc here.
Tunisian Crochet
Tunisian Crochet, also sometimes called Afghan crochet, is a technique that combines elements of both crochet and knitting. Like crochet, you use a hook, but this is usually elongated with a stopper on the end. For this project, you will be able to use your regular hook, as it is only a thin strap. Like knitting, you work multiple loops onto the hook at once. The resulting fabric is thicker and denser than regular crochet, with a less stretchy texture. There are a large variety of Tunisian stitches available, some resembling knit stitches and others offering unique textures.
Click here to watch an introductory tutorial on Tunisian Crochet and the Tunisian simple stitch. (Note that the stitch used in the pattern is a modified version of the Tunisian Simple Stitch, which is shown in a video below.)
With Tunisian Crochet, the right side of the work always faces you. Each row of Tunisian Crochet consists of a forward pass (FwdP) and a return pass (RetP). The FwdP varies for different stitches, whilst the RetP is largely the same for all Tunisian stitches. If you are right handed, you will work from right to left for the FwdP. If you are left handed, you will work from left to right for the FwdP.
SET UP ROW
- Make a normal crochet chain of the number of stitches you require.
- Insert your hook into the back bump of the 2nd chain from the hook.
- Yarn over and pull through a loop (2 loops on your hook).
- Keep repeating steps 2 and 3 adding more loops onto your hook, until you reach the end of the chain. You should then have the same number of loops on your hook as the number of chains you made initially.
RETURN PASS (RetP)
If you are right-handed you will have done your set up row working from right to left, and now you are going to work back along the row from left to right. If you’re left handed, this will be the other way round.
- Yarn over.
- Pull through two loops.
- Repeat steps 2-3 until you have one loop left on your hook.
- ch1.
FORWARD PASS (FwdP)
Once you have completed the set up row and return pass, you have one loop on your hoop. We will now work the modified Tunisian Simple Stitch, starting by working into the first st.
- Insert hook under the front vertical bar and the very next front horizontal bar next to it of the first st. They sort of look like this /|
- Yarn over.
- Pull a loop through both of these bars.
- Repeat steps 1-3 working into the next vertical bar and horizontal bar of each st across. You should end up with the same number of loops on your hook as your starting chain. The last st is worked into the last vertical bar and last horizontal bar of the row.
After completing this FwdP, you will then be carrying on with the RetP.
Watch a tutorial of me making the strap
Pin the Small Crochet Handbag Pattern for Later
Full-length Video Tutorial
If you prefer making your small crochet handbag pattern from a video tutorial, hop on over to my YouTube channel and watch the full-length video tutorial.
The Small Crochet Handbag Pattern
ASSEMBLY
With RS of your bag facing each other, fold the bag body section in half up to the line of sc and secure with stitch markers.
Using Yarn A, starting in the bottom right hand corner with the mosaic section facing you, sl st through both parts of the first side to join together.
When you reach the mosaic section, sc around the edge, making 1sc into each row end. At the corner, make 2sc in the corner st. Along the top edge, sc in each st until you reach the middle 2 sts (level with the middle 2mdc). Skip these 2 sts and ch2 (this makes the buttonhole). sc around the rest of the mosaic section in the same way, making 2sc in the second corner st.
When you reach the second side, join with a sl st as before.
BAG STRAP
The strap is made using a modified Tunisian Simple Stitch in Tunisian crochet. If you prefer, you can simply make a strap using sc or you could use a foundation cord, as I do in my blue and pink version.
Using Yarn A and your 4.0mm crochet hook, ch5. Insert your hook into the back bump of the second ch and pull up a loop, continue pulling up a loop in each st across. [5 loops on hook]
RetP: (yo, pull through 2) rep across, ch1 [1 loop on hook]
FwdP: Insert hook through the vertical bar and the next front horizontal bar of the first st, yo, pull through a loop, rep across. [5 loops on hook]
RetP: as above
Continue repeating the FwdP and RetP until your strap is as long as you desire. Remember it will stretch slightly once your bag is filled.
Attach your strap to your bag using a whip stitch or your preferred joining method.
Weave in any ends, sew the button in place and take your bag out for a stroll!
Pattern help
There is a lot more detail regarding the special stitches and also a chart for the mosaic crochet section in the small crochet handbag pattern pdf version. Also please do watch all of the stitch tutorials on my YouTube channel for extra guidance.
If you are struggling with the pattern, please don’t hesitate to reach out.
Find me on Facebook or Instagram @concretegemscrochet or drop me a message.
This Small Crochet Handbag Pattern is the property of Concrete Gems, please do not share, copy, alter or distribute it in any way. You are welcome to sell items you make using this pattern on a small scale but please credit @concretegemscrochet when doing this.
What next?
I’ve really loved designing this small crochet handbag pattern for you and hope you have had fun making it. I’m Gemma, a crochet tech editor, designer and overall crochet enthusiast. I’m also a mum of 3 kids, and enjoy running, reading, walking and crafting, but mostly crochet!
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Check out my other patterns here.
