Free Crochet Placemats Pattern

This free crochet placemats pattern is simply a riot of rainbow colours and I am so excited to show you how to make your own.

The Reversible Rainbow Placemats pattern lets you transform leftover skeins into a vibrant set of placemats. The beauty lies in its flexibility. We’ll use a single designated colour for Yarn A, providing a stable foundation.

But Yarn B is your playground! Dive into your stash and choose a different colour for each even row, or pick a single contrasting shade. The possibilities are endless and I can’t wait to see what you come up with!

This pattern utilizes the captivating technique of reversible overlay mosaic crochet. This means your placemats will look stunning from either side.

Despite how complicated this all sounds, the pattern is actually fairly simple using a repeating pattern. So you can watch TV whilst you crochet.

If you’ve tried my Reversible Rainbow blanket pattern already, you’ll recognise that it uses the same pattern.

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How are the Reversible Rainbow Placemats made?

The placemats are made using a reversible version of overlay mosaic crochet.

Overlay mosaic crochet is a beautiful crochet technique, which uses single and double crochet stitches in order to create amazing designs. Let’s find out more!

Overlay Mosaic Crochet

Overlay mosaic crochet uses the front loops and back loops to create a beautiful textured colourwork project. You work each alternate row in a different colour using a combination of two stitches: the single crochet in the back loops only; and the double crochet in the front loops only of the stitch two rows below the current row.

Click here to watch a tutorial on overlay mosaic crochet.

Overlay mosaic crochet is worked from right to left (for a right-handed crocheter) on the front of the work only. This means you will need to cut your yarn at the end of each row. But don’t worry, we’ll use a nifty envelope border to hide all the ends! No need to sew them all in!

How do you make it reversible?

Reversible overlay mosaic crochet uses the same technique, with the addition of two extra stitches, which make the whole piece reversible: the anchored dc and the anchored sc, which are explained in detail further down.

The anchored dc is used directly above any mdc stitch. The anchored sc is only used for the very last row of the project.

Why do we need reversible rainbow placemats?

I have 3 kids! I don’t know about you, but in my house, food and drinks are being spilled all the time! There’s always washing to be done and messes to clean up.

So let’s make our lives easier with reversible placemats!

A little spill and we can just turn the mat over and carry on the meal! I’m not saying leave it there forever, it just means there’s less disruption to the mealtime.

Another great thing about reversible crochet placemats is that you get 2 designs for the price of one. Bored of one side, switch to the other! Or mix and match along the table.

The third fantastic thing about crocheted placemats is that they are washable. And then you can use them over and over again!

Sizing

Each placemat measures 15.5″ x 13″ (39cm x 33cm).

If you want to change the size of your placemats, you will need to make sure you have a starting foundation sc of a multiple of 12 + 2.

To change the height, you can simply stop when you reach the desired height, but this may mean you will be finishing partway through a pattern repeat.

PLEASE NOTE: This listing is for a pdf crochet pattern, written in English. It is not a finished project. You will receive a digital download.

Included in the premium pattern:

A 14 page pdf crochet pattern written in US and UK crochet terms, including images, step by step instructions and guidance.

An accompanying video tutorial.

Stitch tutorials are also included as part of the pattern.

Pattern support if needed.

Difficulty level is Advanced Beginner.

You will need:

Stylecraft Special DK 100% Acrylic (100g/3.5oz, 295m/323yds) in Toy (Yarn A), and lots of different colours from your stash (Yarn B) – any DK yarn will work well for this. I used 100g (295m) of total yarn for one placemat and you will need to split that between your different colours.

4.0mm Crochet Hook

Stitch markers

A tapestry needle for working in ends

Scissors

Tension:

17 stitches and 17 rows over reversible mosaic crochet = 4” / 10cm square.

If your sample swatch is bigger than the tension given, try with a smaller hook size. If your swatch is smaller than the tension given, try with a larger hook size.

Yarn Alternatives

There are so many options for yarn for your free crochet placemats pattern and using your stash for Yarn B is a great idea.

You will need to remember to keep to the same weight of yarn throughout though, otherwise your placemat will end up uneven.

I would recommend using DK yarn, but a combination of different brands will work fine. I used acrylic because I have so much in my stash, but I think cotton would work amazingly too. Here are a few alternative options:

Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK, 100% Cotton (50g/1.76oz, 125m/137yds)

Hayfield Bonus DK, 100% Acrylic (100/3.5oz, 280m/306yds)

Deramores Studio DK, 100% Acrylic (100g/3.5oz, 250m/273yds)

Abbreviations

Adc – anchored double crochet (see special stitches)

Asc – anchored single crochet (see special stitches)

blo – back loops only

ch(s) – chain(s)

dc – double crochet

flo – front loops only

mdc – mosaic double crochet (see special stitches)

rep – repeat

RS – right side

sc – single crochet

ss – slip stitch

st(s) – stitch

WS – wrong side

() – repeat the instructions in brackets as directed

Pattern Notes

Construction

The Placemats are worked in reversible overlay mosaic crochet in rows. There is a mosaic crochet tutorial included in the special stitches. Odd numbered Rows are made with Yarn A (Toy), even numbered Rows are made with Yarn B (any scraps from your stash).

At the start of each Row, put a slipknot on your hook with around a 10cm / 4″ tail, before starting the single crochet. The first single crochet of the Row is always a single crochet through both loops in the top of the single crochet from the Row below.

The last stitch of the Row is always a single crochet through both loops. At the end of each Row, cut your yarn leaving around 10cm / 4″, pull it through the loop on your hook and leave it to be tied and enclosed in the envelope border at the end.

The Placemats are finished with an envelope border, which encloses all of your ends. Make as many placemats as you require.

Tips for your free crochet placemats pattern

I only changed colour at the start of a Row, however if you would like to change colour halfway across a Row, change colour on the last yarn over of the stitch, remembering to weave in the ends before they are covered up by the next Row.

St count is not shown as it will be the same throughout.

There is a stitch chart at the end of the pattern, if you prefer to use a chart over written instructions.

This tutorial is written for right-handed crocheters. If you are left-handed, you will be working from left to right across the placemat. Because the pattern repeats, you should be able to follow the pattern as it is.

If you want to change the size of your placemats, you will need to make sure you have a starting foundation sc of a multiple of 12 + 2. To change the height, you can simply stop when you reach the desired height, but this may mean you will be finishing partway through a pattern repeat. Don’t forget to do the last two rows of the pattern though.

Special Stitches

Mosaic Double Crochet (mdc)

1. Yarn over and insert your hook into the unworked front loop of the stitch from the round below the one you would normally work into (it will be the same colour as the yarn you are using). 2. Yarn over and pull through. 3. Yarn over and pull through two loops. 4. Yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops to complete the stitch.

Anchored dc (Adc)

An anchored dc is worked into the back of your work to replicate what you did on the front of the round below. It will look like an sc on the front and an mdc on the back. It is achieved by working an sc in the blo of the stitch and then dropping down the back to work an mdc, as follows:

1. Insert hook into blo of next stitch. 2. Yarn over. 3. Pull through. 4. Yarn over and turn to look over the top and down to the back of your work. 5. Insert hook into the front loop of the stitch two rounds down on the back. It looks like the flo when doing a normal mdc on the front and will be the same colour as the yarn you are working with. 6. Yarn over. 7. Pull through. 8. Yarn over. 9. Pull through two loops. 10. Yarn over. 11. Pull through the remaining three loops.

Anchored sc (Asc)

The anchored sc is only used for the final round of the placemat. It works as catch up round: because we have been working the motif on the back one round above what is on the front, we now need to do a final round to catch the back up to the front. The anchored sc is essentially the reverse of the anchored dc, whereby it looks like an mdc on the front and an sc on the back. It is worked as follows:

1. Yarn over. 2. Insert the hook into the front loop of the stitch two rounds below (same colour as working yarn). 3. Yarn over. 4. Pull through. 5. Yarn over. 6. Pull through two. 7. Insert the hook into the back loop of the stitch on the current round, immediately above where you already inserted your hook. 8. Yarn over. 9. Pull through. 10. Yarn over and pull through the remaining three loops.

Foundation sc

A foundation sc allows you to create that first round of your project without using a chain.

• Start with a slipknot and ch2 (this does not count as a stitch).
• Insert hook in second ch from hook and pull through a loop.
• Yarn over and pull through one loop (this makes the chain part of your first Foundation sc).
• Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook (this makes the sc part of your first Foundation sc).
• Insert your hook into the chain part of the previous stitch, going through the two top ‘v’ shape strands of the chain.
• Yarn over and pull through one loop (this makes the chain part of the Foundation sc).
• Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook (this makes the sc part of the Foundation sc).
• Repeat steps 5 to 7.

Surface Slip Stitch & the Envelope Border

The surface slip stitch will create a border line, which we will then use to crochet into for the envelope border.

Starting with the RS facing, insert your hook through any edge st on the top of your placemat, pull up a loop and pull through. Insert your hook into the next st, pull through a loop and continue pulling this through the loop already on your hook.

This is exactly the same as a normal ss, but you are working through to the back of your work and your yarn will always be held at the back. Make sure not to pull these sts tight at all: it might help to go up a hook size for this.

Now we have a line to crochet into for the envelope border. Work a dc into each loop of the surface ss along the back of your placemat, following the pattern for instructions at the corners. Work a second round of dc before fastening off.

Repeat this on the front of your placemat, working 2 rounds of dc into the 2 loops of the surface ss, again paying attention to instructions in the pattern.

To close the envelope border, ss the 2 sides of the border together, making sure not to pull it too tight.

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Full-length Video Tutorial

If you prefer crocheting from a video tutorial, hop on over to my YouTube channel and watch the full-length Reversible Rainbow Placemats Tutorial.

The Free Crochet Placemats Pattern

BORDER

Tie your ends together in pairs on each side of your placemat to secure using a simple granny knot, and then cut them short (around 1”/2.5cm).

Using Yarn A and the right side of the placemat facing you, surface slip stitch all the way around. Along the top and bottom on the placemat, you will be inserting your hook into the stitches as normal. Along the sides, your hook will go through the side of the sc that we crocheted at the start and end of each row. Fasten off with an invisible join.

Round 1: Using Yarn A, starting on the back of your placemat, insert your hook into the back of any stitch of the surface slip stitch (this will just be a single loop and can be hard to see), ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in each ss around, making sure you work a ch2 between the 2 stitches at each corner, ss in the top of the first st to join.

Round 2: ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in each st around, making sure you work (sc, ch2, sc) in each corner, invisible join.

Rep Rounds 1-2 on the front side of your placemat, working into the front of your surface slip stitch (which will be 2 loops).

You now have an envelope. Join the front and back parts of the envelope together with a slipstitch join, working with the wrong side facing, making sure to enclose all of the ends. Join using the back loop of the front piece of the envelope and the front loop of the back piece.

Make as many placemats as you require. Block to measurements and weave in those last 2 ends.

Pattern help

There is a lot more detail regarding the different stitches in the pdf pattern. Also please do watch all of the  stitch tutorials on my YouTube channel for extra guidance.

If you are struggling with the pattern, please don’t hesitate to reach out.

Find me on Facebook or Instagram @concretegemscrochet or drop me a message.

This pattern is the property of Concrete Gems, please do not share, copy, alter or distribute it in any way. You are welcome to sell items you make using this pattern on a small scale but please credit @concretegemscrochet when doing this.

What next?

I’ve really loved designing this free crochet placemats pattern for you and hope you have had fun making it. I’m Gemma, a crochet tech editor, designer and overall crochet enthusiast. I’m also a mum of 3 kids, and enjoy running, reading, walking and crafting, but mostly crochet!

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