Patterns

Reversible Crochet Snowflake Headband

The Reversible crochet Snowflake Headband is an adaptation of the original Snowflake Headband, but this time, it’s reversible.

Because of the way it’s made, it is nice and thick, so super cosy for winter. Whether you are off skiing or just doing the school run, this headband is sure to keep you warm.

Made in the round using a reversible overlay mosaic crochet technique, this is the perfect project to further your mosaic crochet journey. The repeated snowflake motif is easy to pick up, with the added challenge of making it reversible.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. This means we may receive a commission if you click a link and make a purchase. However, this does not influence our product recommendations, which are based on honest reviews and genuine enthusiasm.

What is Overlay Mosaic Crochet?

Overlay mosaic crochet is a beautiful crochet technique, which uses single and double crochet stitches to create amazing designs.

Overlay mosaic crochet uses the front loops and back loops to create a beautiful textured colourwork project. You work each alternate round in a different colour using a combination of two stitches: the single crochet in the back loops only; and the double crochet in the front loops only of the stitch two rounds below the current round.

The single crochet will always be worked into a stitch of the other colour, whilst the mosaic double crochet stitches are worked into a stitch of the same colour.

Click here to watch a tutorial on overlay mosaic crochet.

Overlay mosaic crochet is worked from right to left (for a right-handed crocheter) on the front of the work only. This means you would normally need to cut your yarn at the end of each row, and therefore have lots of ends.

How do you make it reversible?

Reversible overlay mosaic crochet uses the same technique, with the addition of two extra stitches, which make the whole piece reversible: the anchored dc and the anchored sc, which are explained in detail further down.

The anchored dc is used in the round directly above any mdc stitch. The anchored sc is only used for the very last round of the project.

Why make it reversible?

I love the idea of having 2 accessories in 1! It really appeals to my thrifty nature.

By making the snowflake headband reversible, you can create one piece that will look so different on each side.

I also love how clever the process is of making it reversible. It is such a simple technique once you get the hang of it, and I’m sure you’re going to love it as much as I do.

How is the reversible Snowflake Headband made?

The Snowflake Headband is worked in overlay mosaic crochet in the round. There is a mosaic crochet tutorial included in the special stitches. Odd numbered rounds are made with Yarn A, even numbered rounds are made with Yarn B.

To make it reversible, you will be replicating any mdc you did on the front, and doing it on the next round on the back using an anchored dc instead of an mdc. The special stitches anchored dc and anchored sc are explained.

There is a chart in the premium pdf pattern that also shows where these need to be worked.

Make sure to look out for where you are inserting your hook particularly on the back.

Size

HEADBAND CIRCUMFERENCE:

These are the actual headband sizes. If you are unsure what size to make, measure round your head and take off around 2” (5cm) depending on how tight you like your headband. I don’t like mine too tight. So my head was 22.5” and I made the Teen/S Adult size to fit me. If you are still unsure you can crochet the first row and see how it feels round your head. Remember that the headband will stretch with wear.

0-6m6-12mToddlerChildTeen / S AdultL AdultXL Adult
in1113.2515.517.752022.2524.5
cm2833.539455156.562
HEADBAND HEIGHT: 3.5” / 9cm
If you would like you headband to be taller, add an extra round or 2 of sc at the beginning and end of the pattern in Yarn A. I would recommend this for the larger sizes.

How to get the pattern

There are a few different ways that you can get your Reversible Snowflake Headband crochet pattern.

You can carry on scrolling down and read the pattern free on the blog. The blog has ads on it, which is how I am able to offer it for free.

Alternatively you can purchase a premium pdf version of the pattern, which includes stitch tutorials, links to lots of video tutorials, schematics and full explanations. And of course, if you purchase the pattern, it is yours to keep, print and make notes on.

PLEASE NOTE: This listing is for a pdf crochet pattern, written in English. It is not a finished project. You will receive a digital download.

Included in the premium pattern:

A 15 page pdf crochet pattern written in US crochet terms, including images, step by step instructions and guidance.

An accompanying video tutorial.

Stitch tutorials are also included as part of the pattern.

Pattern support if needed.

Difficulty level is Intermediate.

You will need:

Stylecraft Special DK 100% Acrylic (100g/3.5oz, 295m/323yds) in cream (A), and a contrasting colour (B) – we used grey or red. One ball of each will be plenty to make any of the sizes.

A 4.0 mm crochet hook, or hook to match gauge

Stitch markers

A tapestry needle for working in ends

Scissors

Tension

18 stitches and 17 rows over mosaic crochet = 4” / 10cm square.

Abbreviations

Adc – anchored dc (see special stitches)

Adc3tog – anchored dc three together (see special stitches)

Asc – anchored sc (see special stitches)

blo – back loops only

ch(s) – chain(s)

flo – front loops only

hdc – half double crochet

inv join – invisible join (see special stitches)

mdc – mosaic double crochet (see special stitches)

mdc3tog – mosaic double crochet three together (see special stitches)

rep – repeat

sc – single crochet

ss – slip stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

[…] – stitch count

* – repeat the instructions from * around

Pattern Notes

You will be joining each round with a ss into the first stitch of that round. Then, you will pull the new colour through the ss loop on your hook. Make sure to pull the previous colour tight to hide that extra loop. To make sure the join is properly hidden, when you are finishing with an mdc, you can insert your hook into the required front loop and then also into the first stitch of the round before completing the mdc as usual.

At the end of each round, do not cut your yarn, simply leave it hanging to pick up for the next round.

St count is shown as [0-6m (6-12m, Toddler, Child, Teen/S Adult, L Adult, XL Adult)].

There is a stitch chart in the premium pattern, showing the snowflake repeating pattern, if you prefer to use a chart over written instructions.

Watch out for your stitch counts. Where you are ss in the 1st st to join, and then joining your new colour, you will need to be careful that you are inserting your hook into the right loop for the first stitch of the next round. Use a stitch marker to help.

This tutorial is written for right-handed crocheters. If you are left-handed, you will be working from left to right around the headband. Because the pattern repeats, you should be able to follow the pattern as it is. Alternatively you can follow the chart only, reading it from left to right, but you will not be able to switch between both the written pattern and the chart together.

Tips

When you are working the mdc3tog and diagonal mdc’s onto the back as Adc’s, the stitch chart shows them simply as Adc. If you are only working from the chart, you will need to remember to mimic the mdc from the prior round. In the chart, the symbol ‘A’ means, at this point, do an anchored version of the stitch below. The instructions explain it in full.

On Rounds 10 and 11, you will be working some of the mdc and Adc in between the points of the snowflake. The front loops of the Round below are hidden, so you will need to lift the slanting stitches out of the way to find where to insert your hook. This can be quite tricky especially on the back of the Headband. It can be really helpful to use stitch markers in the Rounds below to mark where the diagonal stitches need to be placed.

Special Stitches

Mosaic Double Crochet (mdc)

1. Yarn over and insert your hook into the unworked front loop of the stitch from the round below the one you would normally work into (it will be the same colour as the yarn you are using). 2. Yarn over and pull through. 3. Yarn over and pull through two loops. 4. Yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops to complete the stitch.

Anchored dc (Adc)

An anchored dc is worked into the back of your work to replicate what you did on the front of the round below. It will look like an sc on the front and an mdc on the back. It is achieved by working an sc in the blo of the stitch and then dropping down the back to work an mdc, as follows:

1. Insert hook into blo of next stitch. 2. Yarn over. 3. Pull through. 4. Yarn over and turn to look over the top and down to the back of your work. 5. Insert hook into the front loop of the stitch two rounds down on the back. It looks like the flo when doing a normal mdc on the front and will be the same colour as the yarn you are working with. 6. Yarn over. 7. Pull through. 8. Yarn over. 9. Pull through two loops. 10. Yarn over. 11. Pull through the remaining three loops.

Anchored sc (Asc)

The anchored sc is only used for the final round of the Headband. It works as catch up round: because we have been working the motif on the back one round above what is on the front, we now need to do a final round to catch the back up to the front. It is essentially the reverse of the anchored dc, whereby it looks like an mdc on the front and an sc on the back. It is worked as follows:

1. Yarn over. 2. Insert the hook into the front loop of the stitch two rounds below (same colour as working yarn). 3. Yarn over. 4. Pull through. 5. Yarn over. 6. Pull through two. 7. Insert the hook into the back loop of the stitch on the current round, immediately above where you already inserted your hook. 8. Yarn over. 9. Pull through. 10. Yarn over and pull through the remaining three loops.

Foundation sc

foundation sc allows you to create that first round of your project without using a chain.

  • Start with a slipknot and ch2 (this does not count as a stitch).
  • Insert hook in second ch from hook and pull through a loop.
  • Yarn over and pull through one loop (this makes the chain part of your first Foundation sc).
  • Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook (this makes the sc part of your first Foundation sc).
  • Insert your hook into the chain part of the previous stitch, going through the two top ‘v’ shape strands of the chain.
  • Yarn over and pull through one loop (this makes the chain part of the Foundation sc).
  • Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook (this makes the sc part of the Foundation sc).
  • Repeat steps 5 to 7.

mdc3tog

This stitch is used to make the bottom 3 points of the snowflake like this: ⩚ You will be working into the same colour yarn as your working yarn. Watch a video tutorial here.

1. Yarn over and insert your hook into the front loop of the stitch from the round below the one you would normally work into and two stitches to the right (or left if you’re left-handed). Yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.

2. Yarn over and insert your hook into the front loop of the stitch directly below the one you would normally work into (next but one to the stitch you used already). Yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.

3. Yarn over and insert your hook into the front loop of the stitch from the round below the one you would normally work into and two stitches to the left (or right if you’re left-handed) (next but one to the one in step 2). Yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.

4. Yarn over and pull through all remaining loops on your hook.

Adc3tog

This stitch is used to make the 3 lower points of the snowflake motif on the back of your Headband:

  • Insert hook into blo of stitch. Yarn over and pull through.
  • Yarn over and insert hook into the front loop of the stitch on the back of the Headband diagonally to the right two stitches.
  • Yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through two loops.
  • Yarn over and insert hook into the front loop of the stitch on the back of the Headband directly below the working stitch.
  • Yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through two loops.
  • Yarn over and insert hook into the front loop of the stitch on the back of the Headband diagonally to the right two stitches.
  • Yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through two loops.
  • Yarn over and pull through all the remaining loops.

Watch a video tutorial of the Adc3tog here.

mdc diagonally to the right or left

Rather than working an mdc into the stitch directly below the current stitch, you will work these stitches diagonally to the left or right two stitches, into the middle of the snowflake motif.

Adc diagonally to the right or left

The same principle applies to working the diagonal Adc stitches on the back of your Headband:

  • Insert hook into blo of stitch. Yarn over and pull through.
  • Yarn over and insert hook into the front loop of the stitch on the back of the Headband diagonally to the left or right two stitches. This will again be into the centre of the snowflake motif.
  • Yarn over and pull through.
  • Yarn over and pull through two loops.
  • Yarn over and pull through the remaining three loops.

Pin it for later

Full-length Video Tutorial

Follow along as I create a reversible snowflake headband. I’ll show you all the stitches and techniques you’ll need to complete your own Reversible Snowflake Headband.

The Reversible Crochet Snowflake Headband Pattern

Round 1: using Yarn A, make a foundation sc of 50 (60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 110), ss in first st to join into a ring. Alternatively you can ch the same number, ss in first ch to join and then work a round of sc, ss in first st to join.

Do not cut Yarn A.

Round 2: join Yarn B by pulling it through the loop on your hook (see notes), sc in blo around, ss in blo of first st to join. [50 (60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 110)]

Do not cut Yarn B.

Round 3: re-join Yarn A, sc in blo around, ss in blo of first st to join.

Round 4: re-join Yarn B, *sc in blo, 3mdc, sc in blo, 3mdc, sc in blo, mdc, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join.

Round 5: re-join Yarn A, *sc in blo, 3Adc, mdc, 3Adc, sc in blo, Adc, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join.

Round 6: re-join Yarn B, *2mdc, sc in blo, mdc, Adc, mdc, sc in blo, 3mdc, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join.

Round 7: re-join Yarn A, *2Adc, sc in blo, Adc, mdc3tog, Adc, sc in blo, 3Adc, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join.

Round 8: re-join Yarn B, *4sc in blo, Adc3tog, 4sc in blo, mdc, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join.

Round 9: re-join Yarn A, *2sc in blo, mdc diagonally left to middle, sc in blo, mdc, sc in blo, mdc diagonally right to middle, 2sc in blo, Adc, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join.

Round 10: (see note) re-join Yarn B, *2mdc, Adc diagonally left to middle, mdc, Adc, mdc, Adc diagonally right to middle, 3mdc, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join.

Round 11: (see note) re-join Yarn A, *2Adc, sc in blo, Adc, mdc, Adc, sc in blo, 3Adc, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join.

Round 12: re-join Yarn B, *sc in blo, 3mdc, Adc, 3mdc, sc in blo, mdc, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join.

Round 13: re-join Yarn A, *sc in blo, 3Adc, sc in blo, 3Adc, sc in blo, Adc, rep from * around, ss in blo of first st to join.

Round 14: re-join Yarn B, sc in blo around, ss in blo of first st to join.

Round 15: re-join Yarn A, Asc around, inv join.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Pattern help

There is a lot more detail regarding all of the different stitches in the pdf pattern. Also please do watch all of the stitch tutorials on my YouTube channel for extra guidance.

If you are struggling with the pattern, please don’t hesitate to reach out.

Find me on Facebook or Instagram @concretegemscrochet or you can also drop me a message.

This pattern is the property of  Concrete Gems, please do not share, copy, alter or distribute it in any way. You are welcome to sell items you make using this pattern on a small scale but please credit @concretegemscrochet when doing this.

What next?

I’ve really loved designing this pattern for you and hope you have had fun making it. I’m Gemma, a crochet tech editor, designer and overall crochet enthusiast. I’m also a mum of 3 kids, and enjoy running, reading, walking and crafting, but mostly crochet!

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If you enjoyed making the Reversible Snowflake Headband, please also consider sharing it to social media tagging @concretegemscrochet

Check out my other patterns here.

concretegems.co.uk

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